Build your Paris trip

The oldest covered market in Paris, now a tangle of lunch stalls. Moroccan, Japanese, Italian — grab a plate and find a shared table.

The Impressionists in a converted Beaux-Arts train station. More walkable and less punishing than the Louvre, and the top-floor clock is the photo.

Yves Camdeborde’s bistro — classic French done right at the Odéon crossroads. Lunch and late are walk-in; dinner books out far ahead.

Order: Whatever the chalkboard says is in season.

A jewel-box bakery by the canal. The escargot pistachio-chocolate pastry and the pain des amis are worth crossing the city for.

Order: Escargot pistache-chocolat; a slice of pain des amis.

A box of 13th-century stained glass that does on a sunny morning what no photo conveys. Small, fast, and overshadowed by Notre-Dame next door.

Iron footbridges, plane trees, and Parisians picnicking on the banks. The un-touristy afternoon: a bottle, a baguette, and people-watching.

A hidden cocktail bar behind a tiny taquería — push through the back door. One of the rooms that started Paris taking cocktails seriously.

A hillside necropolis that’s as much park as cemetery — Chopin, Wilde, Morrison, and cobbled lanes under old chestnuts. Grab a map at the gate.

Buckwheat galettes and cider done with Japanese precision. The best crêpes in the city, and they take it seriously enough to source the butter.

Order: A complète galette; a bowl of dry cider.

Touristy at the top, charming on the back lanes. Climb early, skip the portrait artists at Place du Tertre, find the vineyard and the quiet streets below.

Vast to the point of impossible. Pick two wings, not the whole thing — the Richelieu sculpture courts are emptier than the Mona Lisa scrum.