Nonbei Yokocho · Shibuya · 1-25 Shibuya, Shibuya City

Tiny alley of postage-stamp bars under the train tracks. Each bar seats 6-8 people. Not for dinner — for the photograph and to feel the city. Walk through, peek into a couple, save for tomorrow.

Sets the tone — Tokyo is built at human scale once you leave the train station hubs.

Uoshin Nogizaka · Roppongi · Minato City, Roppongi 7-14-1

Casual izakaya famous for live seafood and creative sake pairings. Get the bonito tataki (seared tableside) and ask the chef for whatever's best that day. Order the smaller pours of three different sakes rather than committing to one bottle.

Better and more interesting than any 'famous' Shibuya izakaya you'd find on a list.

• Reservations help but walk-in at 7 PM usually works for two
• Cash preferred

Bar High Five · Ginza · Polestar Building 4F, Ginza

One of Tokyo's classic cocktail bars. No menu — the bartender asks what you feel like and builds it. Quiet, jacket-helpful, takes its time. Skip if you're crashing from jet lag.

• Reservations recommended
• One drink minimum per person

Tsukiji Outer Market · Tsukiji · Tsukiji 4-chome, Chuo City

The inner wholesale market moved to Toyosu in 2018, but the outer market is still going. Wander the stalls, eat standing up. Standouts: tuna sashimi at Maguroya Kurogin, tamagoyaki on a stick from Yamacho, fresh oysters at Tsukiji Kitsuneya. Skip the long-line restaurants — the standing snacks are better.

First-time visitors check 'fish market' off a list. This one is genuinely good if you arrive early.

• Arrive by 8 AM — many stalls close by 11
• Cash only at most stands
• Don't try to eat everything; pace yourself

Daikanyama T-Site · Daikanyama · 17-5 Sarugakucho, Shibuya City

Tokyo's most beautiful bookstore. Three buildings connected by paths, design and architecture sections in English. Stop at the upstairs lounge for coffee. Even non-readers find it remarkable.

Naka-Meguro canal · Naka-Meguro

Walk 15 min down to Naka-Meguro along the river. In late March the cherry trees along the canal sometimes bloom. Lunch at Onibus Coffee for a flat white and pastries from Bricolage Bread & Co. nearby. Skip the touristy themed cafés.

Watari-Um · Aoyama · 3-7-6 Jingumae, Shibuya City

Small private contemporary art museum. Programs change every few months; check what's on. Spend 45 minutes. Bookshop downstairs is excellent.

Shibuya Crossing · Shibuya

Go to Shibuya Sky for sunset (book ahead) or just walk through the crossing two or three times. Yes, it's the tourist thing. It's still worth it as the lights start to come on.

• Shibuya Sky tickets sell out 1-2 weeks ahead during cherry blossom season

Sushi Tokami · Ginza · 8-2-10 Ginza, Chuo City

Michelin-starred edomae sushi without the impossible reservation gauntlet of Sukiyabashi Jiro. Counter seating, ~20 pieces of nigiri, the rice is the point. Around $120-150 per person for the dinner omakase. Worth the splurge if sushi is the trip.

• Reserve 1-2 months ahead
• Cash or card both fine

Senso-ji Temple · Asakusa · 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito City

Arrive before 9 AM. By 10 it's tour buses. The temple itself is one stop on the day, not the whole day. Walk through Nakamise shopping street on the way out (touristy but charming early).

Pelican Café · Asakusa

Reset before transit to Yanaka. Pelican Café (just bread + coffee, 50 years old) is a quiet local spot.

Yanaka Ginza · Yanaka

Yanaka survived WWII bombing largely intact. Wood houses, cats, small shops. Walk Yanaka Ginza shopping street (350m, lined with food stalls). Stop at SCAI The Bathhouse, a contemporary gallery inside a 200-year-old converted bathhouse. End at Yanaka Cemetery — strangely beautiful, where Tokyo's elite are buried.

• Yanaka is most alive on weekdays mid-day
• Eat your way down Yanaka Ginza — menchi katsu, dango, croquettes

Genuinely. Tokyo days are long. Shower, change, low energy before the evening.

Bird Land Ginza · Ginza · B1, 4-2-15 Ginza

Yakitori is what casual upscale Tokyo dinner looks like — small bites of grilled chicken parts, sake pairings. Bird Land in Ginza is the Michelin-starred version; Toritake is the no-frills classic. Pick by mood. Both seat ~10 people at the counter.

• Bird Land needs reservation 2-3 weeks ahead
• Toritake is walk-in

JZ Brat · Shibuya · Cerulean Tower 1F, Shibuya

Tokyo has one of the world's great jazz scenes — small, careful, listening clubs. JZ Brat in Shibuya is intimate; Cotton Club (Marunouchi) hosts international acts. Cover varies $20-60 depending on the act. Look up tonight's show ahead.

• Reservations strongly recommended
• Doors usually 7 PM for 8 PM set

Omotesando · Aoyama

Walk the length of Omotesando Avenue. Notable buildings: Tod's (Toyo Ito), Prada Aoyama (Herzog & de Meuron), Dior (SANAA), Sunny Hills (Kengo Kuma). Stop into the Nezu Museum at the south end — beautiful garden, even better than the art.

Afuri Harajuku · Harajuku

End on a clean note. Afuri does yuzu-shio ramen — light, citrusy, the opposite of heavy tonkotsu. Tsuta is the one-Michelin-star ramen joint (truffle-soy broth, smaller, longer lines). Both around $15.

Allow 60 min for the trip to HND.